Are Any Self Tanners Actually Safe? Making Sense of the New Research About DHA
Fans of fake tans may want to sit down for this.
Dihydroxyacetone—that’s DHA to you— which is the active ingredient in self-tanners (even clean ones) and spray tans (none of which are clean) “has the potential to cause genetic alterations and DNA damage,” according to a panel of scientists in an investigation done by ABC News.
Now before you run to the bathroom and ditch your Chocolate Sun, let’s take a closer look at what we know so far.
What are the news reports saying?
That DHA has the potential to cause genetic alterations, DNA damage, and cancer.
What’s DHA anyway?
DHA is a sugar that interacts with amino acids in the top layer of your skin to produce pigment called melanoidins; that’s the brownish tanned look these products achieve. DHA can be manufactured synthetically, or it can be derived from natural things, like beet sugar or cane sugar. It was approved by the FDA for topical use in 1977 (and many orange tans ensued!) and is widely accepted as nontoxic when applied to the skin.
So is it toxic?
Some research showed that when it’s applied in the form of a lotion, DHA does not migrate past the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin that’s also sometimes called the “dead skin layer.” Which sounds gross, but it’s good news, we thought, for your organs and your blood if you’re applying it in a cream as opposed inhaling it in the form of a spray tan or a spray-on self tanner.
Up until now, there’s been the most concern about spray tans, because the application method means you might inhale the stuff. Even the FDA, which is typically mum about all things cosmetics-related, has a warning on its website about them. Which means that for the love of all things good (and good looking) you should not be getting a spray tan!
Fine. But I’m good to go with a self tanner, right?
Not so fast.
FDA reports dating back to the 1990s, obtained through a Freedom of Information Act request, cited research that some DHA can migrate to the living layers of the skin after all. How much of it—and where it goes from there—is anybody’s guess.
And I dug up some research from 1962 showing that DHA turned up in blood samples after topical application as well. Dr. Darrell Rigel, an NYU professor of dermatology, told ABC News: “What you showed me certainly leads me to say I have to rethink what I’m doing and what I’m saying because there’s … a real potential problem there.” I’ll say. Every dermatologist I’ve ever been to has told me that if I want to tan, which thank goodness I do not, that I should use a self tanner.
So what’s the bottom line?
As always, it’s up to you. But because the research that’s just now getting attention—even though it’s by no means new—shows that when DHA gets into your blood or migrates to your organs through inhalation, it can cause DNA damage and possibly cancer…
I’ll keep digging into it, but for now, DHA is out for me.
If you decide to continue to use self-tanner, some words of advice: First, treat it like you treat your favorite conventional going-out lipstick and use it only for special occasions, like a wedding, a job interview or a hot date. I’m pretty bruisey on my legs, so I may keep mine around and use it before weddings or something. I’m on the fence about that right now.
And if you are going to use a self-tanner, use a cleaner formula. Most conventional ones are filled with dyes, synthetic preservatives, fragrance and all of that other stuff we generally try to avoid putting on our and in bodies. If you’re not sure if yours has dye in it, you can do one of two things: read the ingredient label (harder) or look at it and see if it’s brown (easy).
We’ll continue to look into this, but we want to know So what are you going to do with this news? To self tan or not to self tan?
You can read more about ABC’s investigation here. It’s long but good. The section called “DHA: A Health Hazard” is where the research is cited.
oh, this is a bummer, but also not surprising, i have a new bottle of chocolate sun that i won’t be ditching, but will be using very sparingly.
This is depressing. You can’t go in the sun, you can’t use self tanners. I live close to Jersey and like to be more tan than the average normal person. Sigh/ The one at the salon I go to claims they use all fruit extracts and none of that toxic stuff though? LA Bronze or something like that. Like you said though, I don’t do it very often any more. iuse it for special occasions mostly
I have to wonder if DHA showed up in the blood after topical application because of the absorption enhancers in mainstream products? Perhaps, with clean self-tanners, if doesn’t migrate past the dead layer….I’m hoping anyway since I just ordered Chocolate Sun for both myself and my sister…. :S
If that’s not the case, and DHA shows up in the blood stream even when using clean products, then I’ll probably use this one bottle then never order it again. I don’t “tan” but I can get some colour so if I do it in moderation and take steps so as to not burn then that’s what I’ll have to live with I guess.
I just want to hide the hair follicles on my legs, which are visible because my skin is so translucent – damnit!
Love love Erythrolose! just sugar and safe.
sry: Erythrulose
This is very sad news. As someone whose normal skin color blinds passersby if the light hits me just right, I’ve relied on self-tanner to “take the edge off” – minimize transparency to hide my veins just a bit. I think the biggest lesson I’ve learned from you (blog, book, tweets) is to learn to make peace and work with what God gave me, so to speak. Oy vey. Easier said than done. Thanks for the updates.
The scientist in me (molecular biology graduate student) trotted straight over to PubMed to try to look up any research on DHA and I couldn’t find anything pertaining to DHA and DNA damage/mutagenesis. Do you know what exactly the ABC scientists are referencing? Of course, just because something hasn’t been researched doesn’t mean it couldn’t be potentially unsafe but a lot of times there just isn’t good science behind many of the claims of individual ingredients being carcinogenic or endocrine disruptors etc. etc.
There is a very big difference between good and bad science, but oftentimes this is overlooked in the rush to promote something as healthy or toxic.
I just bought choc sun and was already planning to use it sparingly b/c it’s pricey according to my budget and I’m lazy and not going to apply it every week, just for holiday weekends and such when I’ll be at the beach. So I’m still using mine :)
I am a mix of the views of Genevieve and Crystal. I decided this year not to self-tan, just to accept my own skin. Plus I’m lazy and the application is an added step I don’t enjoy.
Linda – do you buy erythrulose? I don’t use self/sunless tanners but I DO allow myself some good ol sunshine. My mother’s side of the family is and has always been dark/olive skinned and they all look great for their age and no one has had skin cancer. My dad is half Irish so that changes things a bit for me, but I still love to lay and play in the sun. I use sunscreen most of the time, other times I just make sure I don’t stay out too long and make good use of shady spots. And I always make sure I have a sunglasses and a hat!
Blerg… I guess since I only use chocolate sun on my legs, and only when I’m trying to look pretty I’ll not worry about it. I too am that blinding white light coming at you down the sidewalk so a little color on my legs makes a big difference for me.
Caitlin- I buy pure Erytrulose and mix it with aloe vera. ( 3% Erythrulose). This mixture is rather watery but tans evenly and lasts up to 7 days. My sensitive skin loves it.
Linda – where do you buy the ( 3% Erythrulose)?
Try our’s. Madflowers Henna Body Bronzing Oil is a first in the industry creating a lasting, even sunless tan on any skintone using natural henna plant extracts. The result is healthy, golden-brown glowing skin with a light sensual oil fragrance. Say goodbye to harsh chemicals, synthetic fragrances, streaking and orange tones that persist with most self-tanners. Henna Bronzing Oil blends into the skin flawlessly and offers a healthy alternative for achieving the San Tropez tan. Check us out on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/MadFlowers
I would love to know where you buy the Erythrulose?
Katie,Savanna- “behawe.com” This is an european natural beauty products retailer. Sorry, that I could not help, but there have to be similiar suppliers in the US.
Very good point Tina.
There is so much crap out there that’s called “scientifically proven”. I’d love to know more details as well, so if anybody can find the details of the study, pls let me know.
Is DHA the only unsafe ingredient in self-tanners? Because there are DHA-free self tanners. Would you try those?