Your Questions Answered: How Do I Pick a Clean Shampoo for My Fine, Wrecked Hair?
From Ingrid D: Thank you for your awesome book and blog. I was wondering if you know about Belegenza? I heard it was a great natural line but some of the ingredients look suspect. I am having a hard time finding clean shampoo that works on my hair. It is very dry and damaged (and fine!) from being off and on some heavy meds over the last few years.
Ed’s note: This is going to be a long post, so you might want to grab a snack!
First thing’s first. Damaged hair, whether from heat styling, sun, coloring or something else internal cannot be remedied with shampoo and conditioner. Maybe everybody but me knows this, but it bears mentioning just in case. Not even intense leave-in treatments can “repair” hair that is damaged. I know this because a) I’ve tried everyyyyything and b) I asked a cosmetics chemist named Colin. Also, common sense. We all know hair is dead, but it grows out of your head, which isn’t, so you want to make sure whatever you are using on your scalp and putting inside your body is making things better, not worse.
Our nutrition chapter covers a lot of this but here’s the cheat sheet: Take your omega 3s and 6s every single day, and eat a balanced, fruit- and vegetable-rich diet with plenty of good fats. These things make a tremendous difference in skin and hair health. The rest is up to you and your doctor. Lucky for you though, she or he doesn’t pick your shampoo, we do (ha), so we’ll tell you how to do that in a sec.
Anyway, I’ve been in your shoes, we all have, and I have great news! Not all hope is lost. There’s a lot you can do to improve the appearance and feel and manageability of your hair, even when it’s damaged. Mainstream brands usually feature silicone, which is not an ingredient we are comfortable endorsing. For the naturals, you won’t find the same kind of thing, but I’ve found that with certain oils, wax-based products, and good old fashioned aloe vera, I can get the effect I want. I’ll tell you more about that below, but first we have to go to class.
Belegenza. Oh, Belegenza. I did not know this line, but a brief look at the ingredient list for one shampoo kind of pissed me off, mainly because the line seems to be presenting itself as natural by hawking the absence of certain ingredients, like the aforementioned silicones, and generally speaking this annoys us. OK so that’s something that’s not in there. What is? Let’s look, shall we?
Ingredients: Water, Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl betaine, Decyl glucoside, Glycol stearate, Disodium cocoamphodiacetate, Panthenol, Polyquaternium-7, Proprietary Blend CCS500i, Laureth-4, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbic acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Yellow 10, Blue 1.
I don’t know. Should we just start at the top? It’s definitely low on the toxicity scales, but is it natural in the way that we like things to be natural? Not even remotely.
The site says it is salt free, but the second ingredient is Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, a cleaning agent that is considered to be a low irritant. It is, however, a disodium salt of an ethoxylated lauryl alcohol, so the salt-free thing, beside being a little random to call out, doesn’t appear to be true. (Budding chemists, please fact check me on that if I’m mistaken; I did a bunch of reading and this is what I came up with.) Also, because it’s ethoxylated, there is the concern of 1,4-dioxane contamination. Check the book for a refresher on why that’s not awesome.
Cocamidapropyl betaine is another eyebrow raiser. A lot of brands use it still, but there is concern about nitrosamine contamination. I avoid it, and obviously so does Alexandra (and not just because she doesn’t wash her hair).
Then there’s our old friend phenoxyethanol, an ingredient that’s being phased out by a lot of naturals brands that thought it was safe, only to find out there are some concerns about it. We avoid it. And finally, there is something called “proprietary blend CCS500i” which Google thought was a typo when I pasted it in. (Also, INCI, anybody?) I’m guessing this is their fragrance, which is another no-no for us, since there is no way to know what it’s made of.
I’m going to stop there because really this is just one brand, but it is emblematic of a larger trend that gets my goat.
Moving on. Here’s how to pick a good shampoo.
The best natural shampoos I have used contain clays (my mom has one for me to use when I am home, which should be its own post some day) and/or saponified plant oils (often coconut) as the main cleansing agents. Then you have aloe vera, some herbs, maybe even honey, some vitamins that probably don’t do anything, essential-oil-based fragrance or none at all, some fairy dust and that’s about it. It’s not hard to make a natural shampoo that gets the job done, which is why there are so many good ones. You need something sulfate-free so you aren’t drying our your hair, and you need oils but not too many, because that will leave your fine hair limp.
I personally like John Masters, Max Green Alchemy, Sumbody, Rahua (even though that mysterious nut may be of dubious origin), C Tonics and some others. NuboNau, who does our Friday Deals, carry some of these. So does the wonderful Spirit Beauty Lounge. Check them out, and request samples from retailers if you can. This one by Yarok seems awesome for fine hair, but I have not tried it.
Finally, and I imagine no one is still reading this post, if you want some tips on how I managed to help my heat-damaged hair in time for summer, read this post. I list the top 5 things I tried that kind of worked—and I tried a lot of things.
Good luck with your hair and if any of you have a great shampoo recommendation for our girl Ingrid, please share it in the comments?
I have fine hair too, although it’s not damaged, fortunately, but I’ve had great results using both Max Green Alchemy Scalp Rescue shampoo (which I bought for my husband, but we both love it) and Yarok’s Turn Up the Volume shampoo. John Masters shampoo left my hair pretty limp. I’ve tried lots of different products (although I’m waiting for a deal before I try Rahua) and would definitely recommend requesting samples, which you can get from most of the clean product websites (Nature of Beauty is another one). If not, many offer travel sizes. Otherwise, this can be an expensive quest!
I highly recommend Elava Botanik – http://www.elavabotanik.com/ – I use the Avocado for my thick hair, but they have a Mango that’s for fine hair. It’s quite amazing and there are great reviews out there. It’s about twice as much as I’d like to spend, but when I’ve ordered online I’ve found coupons for 25-50% off. I think it’s worth it since I rarely want to use a conditioner. It’s not even billed as a two-in-one, but it’s the only shampoo I’ve ever found that functions that way. I also like Griffin Remedy, a less expensive option that smells fabulous and is available at Whole Foods. I use the Daily shampoo and conditioner, but they have other versions. Both Elava and Griffin Remedy are truly clean/natural as far as I can see. I have found that too many hair products (even those in our fav natural online boutiques) are not completely clean.
For overall helping out damaged hair, coconut oil cannot be beat. I think different textured hair just needs different versions of the coconut oil treatment – how much, how long, wet or dry. Some hair can take it as a leave-in, fine would do well with letting it sit for a while and then shampooing with a gentle shampoo. Experimenting a bit with coconut oil will probably lead anyone to success. And then grow out the damaged stuff, of course, and take good care of your body.
oh yeah, and I love that flat to fluffy ad! I remember this from looking at my mom and sisters’ Cosmo mags. One of my sisters totally had that exact “fluffy” style going. Hilarious.
I agree with you about being mad at products that say they are “natural” but upon reading the ingredients, they aren’t that clean or natural at all!! Thank goodness that in the book, No More Dirty Looks, you taught us to religiously read ingredient lists! That ’s how I check out products now!
Of course, i also trust the brands mentioned in the book, which is why I use Giovanni shampoo and conditioner. It works great. This line has several versions of shampoo; I’ve tried the “balanced” shampoo and the “volumizer” shampoo; of the two I like the balanced version best. I bought it first at Target, but have since found it at a local health food store. In addition, the health food store offers it in bulk (bring my own bottle) for a much cheaper price. Nice!
I’ve been enjoying the solid shampoos I’ve been getting from Chagrin Valley Soaps. I have very fine, rather thin hair. The longer I use natural solid shampoo, the better my hair gets. Because there isn’t any water, it doesn’t need the same kinds of preservatives that liquid shampoo requires; they also use all kinds of good-for-hair herbs and oils.
Also, right on about healthy diet and omegas. I’ve been faithfully taking my omega supplement and my hair and nails have been getting even healthier.
I love Nature’s Gate Nourishing Hemp. I can’t afford any of those fancy ones and this one is actually affordable. :P It would probably be good for damaged hair because it’s the only thing that has ever, EVER made my frizzy, curly hair shiny. My mom loves it as well.
oh! forgot to mention that one of the reasons I heart the solid shampoos I’ve been using is cost: 1 bar (which lasts several months) is just over $7.
About a year ago I was at my wits’ end – my fine hair was dull, static, damaged, just generally a mess. I love Rahua (the miracle worker brand! Expensive but worth every penny, in my opinion, and it lasts ages) and John Masters. I recently started to branch out to Intelligent Nutrients and so far it’s proving a positive experience. I am insanely keen on having soft silky hair so I used to spend a fortune on all sorts of hair masks and deep conditioners and the like. Since switching to the clean products I can honestly say I haven’t even considered those treatments, including the John Masters one. Going clean has done the trick and my hair has returned to it’s soft, silky, shiny state. (Even my itchy, flaky scalp has massively improved, although stress tends to trigger a bout of dandruff.)
If you feel you need to do something more drastic, why not try applying argan or coconut oil at night, or on a day when you don’t need to go out in public? (Just thinking that for fine hair it’s wonderfully conditioning but leaves it looking really greasy / manky.)
Rebecca, I myself have also used Elava Botanik and its amazing! It’s the first product that I have found that is actually 100% organic and actually helps my hair and doesnt damage it. I started using Elava about 2-3 months and I am really seeing the difference. Of course I did still see a difference when I first started using it. I would definitely recommend it to anyone to try it out! http://www.elavabotanik.com.
Right now it looks like they have a 25% of coupon for those who sign up to there email newsletter.
@Rebecca and Jane — I have not tried this but you dont find it drying? I have never washed my hair with soapnuts!!
@Siobhan – I personally have had no problems with it making my hair dry or flaky. If anything it really has helped with my dry hair and scalp. They have 3 different kinds for different types of hair. I am so glad that they have a 25% off coupon going on right now!
Has anyone else read the story behind the product? I think it is amazing!
wow..thanks guys !!
i have tried john masters and it didn’t see to work for me..it didn’t seem to penetrate by dull,fine ( i also didn’t mention my hair seems to be falling out alot more ..ghack !!!) locks..
but now i will look into these other options..
much appreciated ~~~ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@Siobhan, not drying in the least, as I mentioned I don’t even need the conditioner, though I do have it and it’s nice too. I’ve been using the Avocado version for over a month, including during a week in Tahoe (hot and dry at high altitude) without using conditioner. Truly spectacular, I highly recommend trying out whichever version is appropriate for your hair type (visit the website for deals). Or if you happen to have your own blog, you might even get a free sample for review ; )
I really love Juice Beauty products!! The shampoo isnt drying and the conditioner is so hydrating! My sister, who is a cosmetologist & thinks im a nut for the whole natural beauty thing, says she sneaked a bit in the shower & loved it!
<3 Sarah
theantiquepearl.blogspot.com
After using John Masters, my hair looked more like the \after\ picture. It just didn’t seem to work for me and that stuff is not cheap. Best to get samples.
ingrid- John Masters is a very safe choice for shampoo but i wouldn’t say its best for the appearance of your hair. Its not the most natural of the natural and has some pretty strong surfactants in it. I used it for awhile and found that it initially made my hair look great, but after a couple months dried it out and the coating agents in the conditioner (hydrolyzed protein works in something of the same way as silicones, but safely) built up on my hair. I’d love to try that avocado shampoo a few people mentioned above (I’m a different Jane), looks extremely natural and also concealing of problem areas that can’t just be fixed with shampoo and conditioner. Right now I use a clay concoction that I make myself by mixing some green tea with rhassoul or bentonite clay, nettle leaf powder, hibiscus flower powder, a little grapeseed oil and some essential oils. Its really cheap and makes my hair very clean but no stripping like a surfactant would. I do think there is a bit of a “lag period” when you start using natural hair products. Conventional hair products conceal damage and detangle very well but at the same time make hair more damaged, whereas when you start using naturals, you’re not damaging your hair anymore, but its harder to find one that conceals the damage and detangles as well as silicones, etc. If you hang in there it will get much better than when you were using conventional products though. My clay mixture does a very good job of detangling, but it does take probably 5 or 6 washes to really get the benefit of it since it takes a little while to remove the buildup from other products and initially your hair can feel a little sticky, oily, or dry from that. I would recommend it though. Terressentials also makes a clay wash and while they tend to be a little alarmist about the safety of pretty innocuous chemicals, they do have a really good faq about clay hair washes. Hokay, thats about it for me, sorry for the long post just trying to share some of what I’ve learned in my fairly long journey to natural hair care that works.
I have yet to find any hair care products that really work for me. I excercise daily and if I go too long without washing
My scalp it gets itchy and oily ( I can typically go 5-6 days before I need a wash, as it is I sometimes even put baby powder into my hair to soak up the oil between washes). I have really thick, coarse, and naturally wavy hair and it is prone to frizzing as soon as I step out the door (I live in central Florida). I have tried John master’s Honey and Hibiscus Hair Reconstructor which I love at first and felt like it’s been really conditioning my hair well but it doesnt tame the frizz and fluff factor which is what I really need controlled. I do have to admit that I’ve been shampooing my hair with Redkin Extreme shampoo- Im going to switch to a clean product when I run out of it, but I bought the liter size bottle right before I read NMDL and it was expensive so I’m going to use it up first. Any suggestions for products ladies???
Thanks!!
This post was super helpful! I also have dry, fine hair and am in need of a new shampoo.
I like ‘Everyday Shea’ Moisturizing Shampoo, Vanilla Mint; purchased at Whole Foods. It’s a giant 32 oz bottle that, I believe, I purchased for $10. I don’t care for the same brand’s conditioner, but I do also use their “Everyday Shea” Moisturizing Body Lotion, Vanilla. They’re both made with a large amount of fair trade handcrafted, unrefined shea butter & donate 10% of their sales to West Aftrica.
For conditioner, I like the Whole Foods brand. It’s cheap and does the job.
I have to say I have tried everything on the Market and was never a believer in Natural products, due to them not performing.
I’ve had been a Kerastase user for 10 years and have always been happy, but happened to see an old girlfriend who had the most damaged bleached hair ever with a new head of hair. I asked her what she was using as her hair looked beautiful and healthy.
She said she had come across a few articles on RAHUA and decided to give it a try. She said she’s been using it for the past 2 months and her hair truly transformed. I went to Beautyhabit.com and bought both the Shampoo & Conditioner and I have to say I was a bit sceptical at first, but after a few days of using the Rahua my hair and my scalp felt fresh. It didn’t feel like my hair was being coated with Silicone. MY hair and color look gorgeous and feels like silk.
Its been a few weeks and people at my office have asked what I did different with my hair and I told them ” I just switched Hair products”
Rahua truly is something amazing and its really unbelievable that something Natural could work so great. I have my kids and husband using it
what about kevin murphy’s shampoo and conditioner ?
I’d like to try Rahua, given all the rave reviews out there, but I can’t figure out whether the company is good or bad for the rainforest. anybody know?
I love Rahua’s normal shampoo but love their voluminous shampoo even more, I think it smells delicious, and when you have hard water it works better then the normal Rahua.